This Mount Kenya North Face climb via Kamweti combines a little-used southern forest approach with a technical rock route to Batian, the mountain’s highest summit.
This Mount Kenya North Face climb via Kamweti is a 10-day expedition for experienced rock climbers. You walk in on the quiet Kamweti trail through bamboo and moorland, summit Point Lenana (4,985 m) on day 5 to acclimatise, then spend two days on the classic North Face route to Batian (5,199 m), Kenya’s highest point. You walk out on the Chogoria side and return to Nairobi on day 10.
It suits climbers who lead or second comfortably at around UIAA grade IV, can abseil on their own and want a full mountain journey rather than a quick summit.
Why choose the Kamweti route to the North Face?
Kamweti is one of Mount Kenya’s least-used approaches, so you share the forest and the high valleys with very few other parties. The slow, three-day walk-in through forest, the Sagana and Thegu river valleys and past Lake Hohnel gives your body time to adjust before you reach the high huts.
Climbing Point Lenana before the technical days is deliberate. A night at around 4,200 m and a summit near 5,000 m make the long day on the North Face safer and more enjoyable.
What to expect on the Mount Kenya North Face climb via Kamweti
Days 1 to 4 are trekking days of about 5 to 7 hours, camping in the forest and moorland and reaching Mackinder’s Camp below the peaks. Day 5 starts before dawn for Point Lenana, then you settle at Shipton’s Camp. On day 6 a short walk takes you to Kami Hut at the foot of the North Face.
Day 7 is the main climbing day: roughly ten rope lengths of rock up to a bivouac near Firmin Tower. On day 8 you finish to the summit of Batian around midday, abseil down and walk back to Shipton’s. Days 9 and 10 take you over Simba Col, down the Chogoria side and back to Nairobi.
When is the best time for the North Face?
The North Face gets the sun and is usually in its best condition from late June to early October. January and February are dry too, but that season favours the south-east face routes on Nelion. Avoid the long rains from April to May.
Read our Kenya packing list for the warm layers you will need above 4,000 m, and our guide to tipping in Kenya for how to thank your mountain crew.
How do I book this climb?
Prices depend on your dates, group size and whether you want huts, camping or extra nights, so we quote every climb personally. WhatsApp us on +254 706 223888, email [email protected] or request a tailor-made quote. If you are travelling with friends, a club or colleagues, see our page on climbing as a group.
Highlights
- Quiet Kamweti forest approach on Mount Kenya's southern side
- Point Lenana (4,985 m) summit for acclimatisation
- Roped ascent of the North Face to Batian (5,199 m)
- Nights at Mackinder's Camp, Shipton's Camp and Kami Hut
- Walk-out over Simba Col and down the Chogoria side
