This Nelion and Batian climb targets both of Mount Kenya’s technical summits, using the Normal Route on Nelion and the airy Gate of the Mists traverse to Batian.
This Nelion and Batian climb is an 8-day technical expedition on Mount Kenya. You trek up the Sirimon route, acclimatise at Shipton’s Camp and on Point Lenana (4,985 m), then base at Austrian Hut for two climbing days on Nelion (5,188 m) and, conditions permitting, across the Gate of the Mists to Batian (5,199 m). You descend on the Chogoria side.
It suits experienced alpine rock climbers who can climb around UIAA grade IV and abseil unassisted.
Why choose the Nelion and Batian climb?
Nelion’s Normal Route on the south-east face is the best-known technical line on Mount Kenya: about 400 m of roped climbing and scrambling, with a crux of around UIAA IV-. From the top of Nelion, strong teams can cross the Gate of the Mists, a notch between the two summits, to reach Batian.
Two climbing days are built in, so you have a spare day for weather or to attempt Batian after Nelion.
What to expect on the Nelion and Batian climb
Days 1 to 3 cover the Sirimon trek to Shipton’s Camp, with an acclimatisation day there. On day 4 you climb Point Lenana and move to Austrian Hut. Days 5 and 6 are climbing days on Nelion and, if conditions allow, Batian, returning to Austrian Hut each night. Days 7 and 8 take you down past Lake Ellis to the Chogoria side and back by road.
When is the best time to climb Nelion?
December to March is the classic season for the south-east face and Nelion, with drier, sunnier days. The Gate of the Mists can hold snow and ice, especially around December, and may need a night in the small Howell Hut on Nelion’s summit.
Our Kenya packing list covers the layers you need, and our tipping guide explains how to tip the crew.
How do I book this climb?
Prices depend on your dates, group size and whether you want huts, camping or extra nights, so we quote every climb personally. WhatsApp us on +254 706 223888, email [email protected] or request a tailor-made quote. If you are travelling with friends, a club or colleagues, see our page on climbing as a group.
Highlights
- Normal Route on Nelion (5,188 m), crux about UIAA IV-
- Gate of the Mists traverse to Batian (5,199 m) when conditions allow
- Point Lenana summit for acclimatisation
- Two climbing days from Austrian Hut
- Sirimon route up, Chogoria side down
